Across Canada Week Three: August 1 - 7, 2023

 

Martello Tower constructed in the early 1800s

(1st Aug) Québec City: We walked and walked, mostly in the Champs-de-Bataille - Battlefields Park which includes the Plains of Abraham. The echoes of the past are faint in this beautiful place and only evoked by a number of markers and commemorative displays. It is sobering to think about the difference one 30-minute battle had on the future of so many people. 

We ate a very typical three-course midday dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens, located in one of the oldest buildings in the city. It was a delicious, but heavy meal and included lots of traditional foods such as tourtière, pea soup, pork tenderloin with three mustard sauce, grated turnip with maple syrup, maple bread pudding, and blueberry pie. We chose different items so as to be able to try different dishes. After rolling out of the restaurant we wandered the streets before heading back to the ferry and the shuttle to the campground. Not much dinner needed!

(2nd Aug) People have asked us about any language difficulties we might have had. Most people speak at least some English. I speak rudimentary French and very much enjoyed using it when I could. Several people said they didn't speak English, but I believe that someone else could have stepped in if we hadn't had any French language. We found everyone helpful, and not just in the tourist areas. 

We slept in, did a few loads of laundry, and then rode our bicycles along the St. Lawrence River opposite the old city. There is an extensive biking trail with free parking lots, beautifully clean washrooms, and wide clearly marked two-way trails. 

Le Bout d'en Bas, Isle aux Coudres, QC

(3rd Aug) Rain all day, heavy at times. We set out from Lévis and crossed the river to the north side, headed for Isle aux Coudres. Between St. Anne de BeauPré and Baie St. Paul the highway has some very steep grades, the most we've seen since leaving the Rockies. A ferry (free) took us to the little island. We purchased groceries in Baie St. Paul, not far from the ferry. I bought some local delicacies that aren't available in Victoria such as Pork and Deer Paté and poutine gravy mixes.

Our hope was to ride our bicycles around this pretty little island in the St. Lawrence River. Alas, that was not to be. However, we drove around the island, stopping for a walk at Le Bout d'en Bas recreation area with our rain gear. It was very misty and moody, with a quiet beauty. 

Instead of biking, we visited Les Moulins de L'Isle aux Coudres, where both a watermill and windmill are still used to grind grain. It was a fascinating place to tour, with helpful interpreters (who spoke English), and picturesque buildings. I bought some flour and kept it in the freezer until we got home and then baked bread with it. Delicious!

We camped at Leclerc Camping in a no-service site with a beautiful view over the river. Unfortunately, the view was mostly obliterated by fog and mist. 

(4th Aug) Drizzle, fog, and rain for most of the day. Although we had to change some of our plans because of the rain, we always found interesting things to do and see, and sometimes, we just got wet and cold, knowing that we had a warm place to return to. 

We left Isle aux Coudres on the 8 am ferry and drove to St. Simeon via the Route du Fleuve. Such pretty villages full of charming houses. I loved the roofs, the colours, the apparent coziness. Not a good day for photos, though. 

We arrived in St. Simeon just in time to see the 10 am ferry to Rivière-du-Loup leave, so we waited until 1 pm. Went for a walk when the drizzle eased, had tea and coffee in a small bistro, and relaxed. 

Once in Rivière-du-Loup we continued driving to New Brunswick in heavy rain. We boondocked in Perth Andover, in an abandoned parking lot near the river. Grilled flank steak, broccoli salad, and corn on the cob made a yummy dinner. Spent a quiet night.

World's longest covered bridge, Hartland, NB

(5th Aug) Oh, the rain in the night! We slept in and made pancakes and bacon for breakfast before taking the scenic route to the world's longest covered bridge in Hartland, NB. The rain stopped and we walked across the bridge and visited the small tourist information office on the other side. This is the bridge famed for Covered Bridge Potato Chips - we bought a bag to try them out. Crisply delicious!

Historic home in King's Landing, NB

On to King's Landing, an historic reconstruction set in 1863. What a great place to visit. Homes, barns, workshops are all interpreted by in-character staff dressed in the costumes of the day. They knit, make rag rugs, cook, repair, mill flour, farm, and more. All of the buildings came from elsewhere, moved to the site by land or water (St. John River). Stone buildings were dissembled stone by stone, each number and then reassembled. 

Dried flowers in a home in King's Landing, NB

One of the most unique places to visit was the printer where we were able to print our own bookmarks with an old press. 

We drove another 1.5 hours to Salisbury for the night, planning to boondock at a truck stop. We soon decided it wasn't for us and around 10:30 pm we left the noisy, smelly, crowded place and drove to Walmart in Moncton where we spent a quiet night. We've decided truck stops are a last resort. 

(6th Aug) En route to Antigonish today and we stopped at two National Historic Sites - the Monument of Lebvre and Fort Beausejour, both of which tell parts of the Acadian story. 

Cape George Lighthouse, NS

On to Antigonish, NS. We took a short hike along a marshy inland waterway. We noticed a sign for a lighthouse at Cape George and decided to drive up. The narrow, winding, and rather rough road ended in a beautiful view overlooking the Northumberland Strait. The day was sunny and comfortably warm. We stayed for several hours, basking in the expansive view. So nice after all the rain!

I made a snacky sort of early dinner and we ate looking out over the water. A local family sat at the table next to us and we started chatting. So friendly. We were going to boondock somewhere for the night (not at the Lighthouse - no camping signs), and they invited us to park on their rural property. We were a little leery but decided to take them up on it. How kind they were. 

Sunset from Livingstone Cove, NS

(7th Aug) The next morning we were off to Cape Breton Island. We planned to do more touring of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia on our return trip. For now, we had a ferry reservation to Newfoundland on the 9th. 

The tourism office on Cape Breton Island was very helpful. We drove to Judique for lunch at the Celtic Musical Centre. Arriving early we decided to go for a bike on the Trans Canada Trail along the water and through the forest. We cycled about 5 km before turning around. Lunch was a delicious seafood chowder. A Celtic fiddler entertained us with traditional music. 

Then on to North Sydney, NS where we stayed at the KOA Campground. Very nice showers.